![]() ![]() Might be worth having it engineered just because it would be easy to make on site and easy to transport the needed materials to the site, if that's an issue. You could manufacture a site-built truss for that, but you can't design it yourself. If there is no pier below the 4x4, and you don't want to put one in, you are effectively spanning the whole 32 feet anyway. If it's on a slab you may need to cut a hole for a pier. Or, put a beam beneath the 4x4 spanning between two piers. Construct or buy a 14 and an 18, land them both on a 4x4, put a concrete pier beneath the 4x4 if there is not one already. Overlapping the 2xs only two feet is not enough, and I agree don't rely on glue. # Posted: 12 Oct 2016 15:03 - Edited by: bldginspĭoes the mid support wall sit on a raised floor, if so, is there a pier under it? Roof load should always go directly to dirt. With Sampson rafter hangers on the beam (and on the wall) and strapping across the top - it was quick to put up (although, as my design was a Gambrel roof - it took a lot more time to make the rafters). Could have used 2 but would have needed more depth thus taking away from headroom. If I recall, I went with 3 LVLs each at 9.5". My beam is 24' (but supported at 16) and, although I do not remember the cost, it was much cheaper than I anticipated and delivered with a boom truck tight onto the supports. I haven't done the calculations yet but this was interesting.Īs MtnDon suggested - make sure you also size and price out LVL beams. Also have the lumber dealer price out a laminated factory beam for a $ comparison. ![]() You might have toorder 18 or 20 foot 2x, but that can be done. HOWEVER, with a column at the 18/14 foot point just size a nailed up lumber beam and see what sizes would be needed. ![]() Factory manufactured beams use special adhesives, heat and pressure. I don't believe there is a good method for making a DIY laminated beam for a clear span of 32 feet. The strength of through bolts is dependent upon the strength and integrity of the area above and below the bolt hole. ![]() I don't know the gap filling properties, in other words. Two part resorcinol glue might work but I don't know about how strong it is is the material does not fit tightly together. Glues like Titebond also creep under load. Epoxy is too hard and does not adhere well enough to wood. The typical construction adhesive also slowly degrades over time, although that may be measured in decades when everything is kept dry. Construction adhesive has some creep when the glued together parts have shear forces involved. If you had supports columns centered under the splices it would work (everything sized properly of course). How about Gorilla (expansion/hydraulic) glue? I forgot to describe the support wall shown at 18 ft. Rafters would be 2圆x12's 16 inch on center. I'm thinking about making my own ridge beam onsite for a 20x32 cabin out of 2x8x10's and 2x8x12's using construction adhesive and bolts. Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Ridge Beam Forums - Register/Sign Up - Reply - Search - Statistics. ![]()
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